A STAR WITHOUT STARS - "Grand Cru by Adrian Quetglas", Moscow, Russia

Adrian Quetglas is definitely a star, a name that you've probably heard. The Argentinian chef with Majorcan blood, "genius of molecular cuisine", already for more than ten years changes the Moscow's fine dining landscape. There's nothing new in a foreigner falling in love with the biggest Russian metropole. Moscow is a true Russian lady: she seems to be cold and dangerous, but so inexplicably tempting that you can't stand the charms, and, if you win her attention, there's no a more passionate lover. Adrian gave her a heart, stomached unfaithfulness of public and in-appreciation of critics, while his signature place in Palma has a Michelin star. But he stayed and cared and, therefore, deserves a monument, or at least a medal. Shame, but "Grand Cru" is nothing of that. 

Grand Cru by Adrian Quetglas
Restaurant and wine bar
Malaya Bronnaya St., 22, Moscow 123104, Russia
Z-star: *** (3/5)
GaultMillau: 15.5/20
http://www.grandcru.ru/
Chef: Adrian Quetglas

The interior is very stylish but cosy. I loved the warm yellow light that gently fills the place in the evening. For me "open kitchen" always creates an impression of artificiality. Here a window (on the photo above) being rather an homage to this popular concept is not disturbing and looks very reasonable.

You do not receive a wine list. The bottles are displayed on the walls, and this exposition is worth a walk. Wine in Russia is expensive, be prepared to pay at least twice of the normal European price. Antithesis to this are prices of food: big tasting set for around Eur 70 is a great value for money. 

And the tasting set is what I would recommend to go for. Foie gras Bonbon stays in memory thanks to a wonderful gentle texture. However, fish smells too much of river. Desserts (there are two in the set), very creative and tasty, overshadow the main course. Russian "honey-cake" was not included into the set, but is worth to be ordered if you came for coffee only. Overall impression of cuisine is very positive.

There's no wine pairing option on the menu, but all the suggestions made by the restaurant's caviste were spot on. Italian chardonnay was a very clever and talented choice, it perfectly complemented the starters and was a great option to a pricy Burgundy.

However, because of the caviste lady "Grand Cru" lost the possible fourth Z-Star. Firstly, you can't serve a great wine with a gloomy face. Secondly, the work of the caviste and the waiters was absolutely disorganized: our food became cold because we waited for the wine to be served. She was too busy and she was not sorry. But she was beautiful and she was Russian, you know... (smile).