MY WAY - "Pipero", Rome, Italy

It is very common to associate fine dining with the leading role of a chef. Usually fine restaurants are built either by or around a chef. Saying "Osteria Francescana" you mean Massimo Bottura and "Alinea" is Grant Aschatz.  Dining at "Pipero" means visiting its owner, Alessandro Pipero.

Pipero
Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 250, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
Z-star: ***** (5/5)
Michelin: *
http://www.piperoroma.it/en/
Owner: Alessandro Pipero
Maitre: Achille Sardiello
Wine: C'Incanta Trebbiano d'Abruzzo 2012

Ring a bell and Achille Sardiello, sophisticated maître d'hôtel in a perfect suite with perfect manners, will come to meet you. Rhythmic architectural elements dissolve in the perspective of the entrance hall: here begins your journey into the fairy-tale castle of Pipero, one step further and it's impossible to believe that only walls divide you from the busy Via Vittorio Emanuele II. 

I love this interior: dark wood in combination with copper elements found even in smaller details like pressing of the restaurant's name on the menu. The light is very warm and textures of plates, cutlery and table-cloth are very pleasant. Scandinavia with Italian sophistication.

Signor Pipero greeted us personally already in the very beginning, just after we were seated. "Do you want to change the number of dishes in the tasting set? - No problem". "Is our famous carbonara included? - Even if not, I'll do it. And if you ask, we will change our recipe and make it lactose-free". - He can do everything, because it's his kingdom.

Smoked olives open the show. Incredibly fortunate choice of the matured white wine. Leaves and herbs play their own roles on plates, however, souses shall not be ignored. "Clean you plate with the bread!" - oh, Mr. Pipero, you don't need to ask. It's hard for me to describe the dishes because each of them are acts in a big colourful, but stylish performance.

This restaurant is one more confirmation, that if you do something honestly and with love and passion, you can do magic. Not being a chef, this big dreamer has created a restaurant of his dreams ... my dreams.