THE RUSSIAN UNIVERSE - "White Rabbit", Moscow, Russia


As soon as the stingy sun starts to warm the air in the middle of spring, flocks of  people hungry for being outside are going to a forest, to a river, anywhere out of the muddy cities of block houses. In Russia "Shashliki", the Caucasian style barbecue, is the favorite pastime with family and friends until the winter starts to fight back, what happens much sooner than later. The beautiful care-free experience full of flavors of freshly marinated meet, smoke of bonfire and local herbs. Can you even imagine that one can experience all that sitting in the luxurious interior with the view over the bustling Garden Ring of Moscow? And this is only one of dozens of magical things happening in the White Rabbit.

White Rabbit
Smolenskaya Square, 3, Moskva, Russia, 121099
Z-star: ***** (5/5)
World’s 50 Best Restaurants - No.15
GaultMillau: 17.5/20, "Legendary Chef", exceptional wine list
whiterabbitmoscow.ru
Chef: Vladimir Mukhin
Wine: UPPA Winery Pavel Shvets, Chernaya River Valley Cler Nummulite Riesling 2016

The chef had a day off. But it was so great to greet him personally as he was passing by, recognized by me as seen on Netflix' original series "Chef's Table".

Vladimir Mukhin is an apostle of the Russian cuisine's resurrection from the ocean of industrial mayonnaise.  The tasting menu is called the "Russian Evolution" and takes you on a journey through this ancient giant land in three dimensions:

Territory: here's "knyazhenika", "berry of princes", arctic raspberry, from Altay mountains; scallops are coming from the Far East; and pine nuts from Siberia.

History: cabbage, as eaten by the old Slavs, and cold soup "okroshka", popular in the Soviet times, all taken to a completely new level.

Emotions: I've already given an example in the beginning. Here's another one: the final dessert is served on a top of a clay toy, one of the oldest folk art handicrafts still existing in small villages of the European Russia; the artist would leave potatoes together with toys in the oven, when the work is done, the dinner is ready. This knowledge, this art are timeless, that is why the candy is wrapped in gold, but the content is potato, simple and priceless as it is. The toy is a whistle, just blow and feel how the awaken centuries are passing buy.

Don't miss a chance to compliment the amazing food with amazing wine. Pavel Shvets makes incredible bio-dynamic Riesling in Sevastopol. Prices are high. So is the quality.

Each dish had a story, each one was special, served on a custom-designed plates. Lactose-free version was not just the same menu with missing ingredients, but a completely different version, making me jealous of the seen lactose-free alternatives. Yes, they have a shorter vegan set. But having heard that we would love to taste the main one, Vladimir, relaxing on his day-off at the table nearby, stood up, went to the kitchen, and created those alternatives just for us.

Before the dessert tasting noses - samples of gastronomic perfumes created by the chef - arrived to the table, each guest receives a bottle of a chosen scent as a gift: so my adventure is still on. 

Our beautiful host Anna is worth all the best compliments, she does incredible job.

I could write a book about this experience. But for the moment I would only say, the White Rabbit is the best restaurant I've ever been to.



















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